Acoustic Ceiling Removal - Popcorn or Texture?
By Rob Church
Article Word Count: 559 [View Summary] Comments (0)
The decision to attempt acoustic ceiling removal is not something most people jump into without a bit of forethought. There are both pros and cons to consider before making a choice to either keep that popcorn ceiling or scrape it off and replace it with some type of wall texture. I have tried to cover the most important issues in this article to help you make the choice best for your situation.
The Pros of Acoustic Ceiling Removal
The money: Acoustic removal usually increases the value and marketability of your home, sometimes dramatically. A textured ceiling is by most opinions far more appealing and buyers will pay for what they like.
Removal reduces the nesting places for bugs such as dust mites and spiders. In my experience, it is more likely than not to see spider webs on close examination of an older acoustic ceiling.
Because the rough acoustic ceiling texture tends to trap light and create a shadowing effect replacing with modern knockdown or similar texture can make the room appear much brighter and more open.
The new ceiling can be painted the same color as the walls or a different color if you desire. You are not stuck with an "acoustic white" or one of the shades of yellow acoustic tends to turn over the years.
Cleaning the dust and dirt that accumulates around ceiling vents and ceiling fans is next to impossible with out damaging and/or creating a mess of acoustic kernels on an acoustic ceiling.
The Cons of Acoustic Ceiling RemovalThe money: Removing a popcorn ceiling, repairing the drywall, applying texture, priming and finally painting can be very expensive if done by a contractor.
Sometimes acoustic is applied because that gnarly texture hides damage. Hidden drywall damage usually means more time needed from the crew's drywall patch masters, along with additional material which of course equals more money out of your pocket.
The removal process can be a lot of work if done yourself. There is a lot of information out there on the web to help guide you through the process. In fact, our site, BigRehab.com, has a systematic manual on the process. Removal is hard work that requires a certain level of skill, skill that only comes with experience. Before taking on the removal of an entire home, I highly suggest you get started by doing a small bedroom or office to size up what you are getting into. Many errors in coating the drywall or applying the texture will not be seen until the paint is applied and has dried.
Some popcorn/acoustic ceilings contain asbestos. If your ceiling contains asbestos above the threshold level you must follow your state and local laws regarding removal and disposal of this hazardous waste product. This will include multiple air samples, protective clothing and respiration gear, specialized sealers, portable showers, heppa air filtration, etc. Can you see the dollars piling up yet? Asbestos removal is very expensive.
Popcorn or TextureAs you consider these issues and come to a decision do not overlook one of the most important factors: You. Is looking at those ugly ceilings something you want to do for the rest of the time you own your home? Ultimately optional home improvement projects such as removing your popcorn ceiling come down to what your desire is for the home you live in.
For further information on acoustic ceiling or popcorn ceiling removal, visit the author's website. It is a wealth of information and includes free do it yourself manual that outlines the acoustic removal process in easy to follow steps.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Rob_Church
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Installing sub-floor
Know-How For Installing A Wood Sub Floor
By Russell R. Freeman
Article Word Count: 738 [View Summary] Comments (1)
Putting down a new floor, including the wood sub floor - either wood or tile - carries its own special brand of satisfaction. The job, once you've finished, is beautiful. Remember that this is definitely a part of the job you can look forward to - the thought may ease the humdrum routine of nailing, sanding, scraping, etc.
First and foremost, the underpinnings for a new floor are important. Contrary to what you might think, putting down a wood sub floor involves nothing more than a bit of straightforward carpentry.
A conventional wood sub floor is built with square edge boards. This is a pretty common lumberyard item. When you put down your money you'll either get Ix4s or Ix6s. If you buy what's known as number one grade, the lumber will be reasonably straight, not too beat up and without knots that affect strength.
Number two grade is not quite so elegant, a little harder to work with and quite a bit cheaper as far as the whole wood sub floor is concerned. Whichever type you decide upon, be sure to specify common grade lumber. If possible buy from a lumberyard that stores the stuff undercover so that it will be seasoned and dry. On no account should you buy wood sub floor boards wider than 6 in.
For greater strength, lay the wood sub floor diagonally across the joists. Where two lengths must be joined just butt the ends together, but make sure the junction is over a joist. Otherwise you may find yourself with a rather springy board here and there with the loose end flapping in the breeze. Leave space in between boards - a small amount of in. is fairly safe.
Nail the wood sub floor boards down solidly to each joist. Use two 10-penny nails driven through the face of the wood into the joist at each point. If you're the type who likes to wear both belt and suspenders, it's not a bad idea to buy rosin coated nails for this purpose. They hold like crazy.
Some types of finished flooring can go down over a wood sub floor of 3/4 in. plywood. Nailing this stuff to the bare joists gets the job over in a very short time. There is a special plywood now recommended. Three-quarters in. thick, it has a layer of tough hardboard laminated onto one side and is installed with this surface facing down. There's a reason for using it: over the years plywood can be compressed when it's used as a wood sub floor and the surface can become a little bumpy. The extra tough layer eliminates the problem.
Use 4x8-ft. sheets and be sure that the joints between the wood sub floor pieces fall exactly on the joists so that you get full support. Fasten down the plywood with rosin coated nails spaced about 10 in. apart around the rim of the sheet and in a line down each joist that the plywood covers.
At this point you're ready to install the finished flooring, but let's backtrack for a moment. Perhaps you already have an old floor in the room that's pretty well shot. Although it's beyond the point where it can be spruced up with scraping and refinishing, it's still sturdy enough to make a perfectly decent wood sub floor. What do you do in this case? You use it as a wood sub floor. Remember, though, a new wood floor is only as smooth and sound as the floor it rests on. For this reason tighten up all loose boards and eliminate squeaks.
Just nail right through the old floor - now your new wood sub floor - using 6-penny screw-type flooring nails. Countersink the nail heads a little below the surface. If the guy behind the counter at your local hardware store just shrugs his shoulders at the idea of screw-type flooring nails, don't despair. Buy rosin coated nails of the same size. They will hold almost as well. If there are any warped boards, plane them down until the surface is reasonably smooth.
Pry loose the shoe molding (it's usually just quarter round molding tacked into place at the joint between the baseboard and the floor) on all sides of the room. Sweep the wood sub floor clean and if the area is unusually dusty get out the vacuum cleaner.
You are now ready to fasten down new wood strip flooring.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Russell_R._Freeman
By Russell R. Freeman
Article Word Count: 738 [View Summary] Comments (1)
Putting down a new floor, including the wood sub floor - either wood or tile - carries its own special brand of satisfaction. The job, once you've finished, is beautiful. Remember that this is definitely a part of the job you can look forward to - the thought may ease the humdrum routine of nailing, sanding, scraping, etc.
First and foremost, the underpinnings for a new floor are important. Contrary to what you might think, putting down a wood sub floor involves nothing more than a bit of straightforward carpentry.
A conventional wood sub floor is built with square edge boards. This is a pretty common lumberyard item. When you put down your money you'll either get Ix4s or Ix6s. If you buy what's known as number one grade, the lumber will be reasonably straight, not too beat up and without knots that affect strength.
Number two grade is not quite so elegant, a little harder to work with and quite a bit cheaper as far as the whole wood sub floor is concerned. Whichever type you decide upon, be sure to specify common grade lumber. If possible buy from a lumberyard that stores the stuff undercover so that it will be seasoned and dry. On no account should you buy wood sub floor boards wider than 6 in.
For greater strength, lay the wood sub floor diagonally across the joists. Where two lengths must be joined just butt the ends together, but make sure the junction is over a joist. Otherwise you may find yourself with a rather springy board here and there with the loose end flapping in the breeze. Leave space in between boards - a small amount of in. is fairly safe.
Nail the wood sub floor boards down solidly to each joist. Use two 10-penny nails driven through the face of the wood into the joist at each point. If you're the type who likes to wear both belt and suspenders, it's not a bad idea to buy rosin coated nails for this purpose. They hold like crazy.
Some types of finished flooring can go down over a wood sub floor of 3/4 in. plywood. Nailing this stuff to the bare joists gets the job over in a very short time. There is a special plywood now recommended. Three-quarters in. thick, it has a layer of tough hardboard laminated onto one side and is installed with this surface facing down. There's a reason for using it: over the years plywood can be compressed when it's used as a wood sub floor and the surface can become a little bumpy. The extra tough layer eliminates the problem.
Use 4x8-ft. sheets and be sure that the joints between the wood sub floor pieces fall exactly on the joists so that you get full support. Fasten down the plywood with rosin coated nails spaced about 10 in. apart around the rim of the sheet and in a line down each joist that the plywood covers.
At this point you're ready to install the finished flooring, but let's backtrack for a moment. Perhaps you already have an old floor in the room that's pretty well shot. Although it's beyond the point where it can be spruced up with scraping and refinishing, it's still sturdy enough to make a perfectly decent wood sub floor. What do you do in this case? You use it as a wood sub floor. Remember, though, a new wood floor is only as smooth and sound as the floor it rests on. For this reason tighten up all loose boards and eliminate squeaks.
Just nail right through the old floor - now your new wood sub floor - using 6-penny screw-type flooring nails. Countersink the nail heads a little below the surface. If the guy behind the counter at your local hardware store just shrugs his shoulders at the idea of screw-type flooring nails, don't despair. Buy rosin coated nails of the same size. They will hold almost as well. If there are any warped boards, plane them down until the surface is reasonably smooth.
Pry loose the shoe molding (it's usually just quarter round molding tacked into place at the joint between the baseboard and the floor) on all sides of the room. Sweep the wood sub floor clean and if the area is unusually dusty get out the vacuum cleaner.
You are now ready to fasten down new wood strip flooring.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Russell_R._Freeman
Fix a drywall hole of any size
Do-It-Self Hole Repair
By Clinton N. Maxwell
Article Word Count: 488 [View Summary] Comments (0)
Repairing a hole in your wall is easier than you think and there is usually no need to call a handyman. Even large holes can be a do-it-yourself project. Here are some tips to repairing a hole in your wall.
First off, you need to do some preparation and planning. Make sure you have the right tools for the job including putty knives, sandpaper with both course and fine grit and compound. Larger jobs will require more materials and tools such as drywall, drywall nails or screws and a trowel. Make sure that the area around the patch is clean so the compound will adhere to the wall.
Next, you need to determine the best method for repairing the hole and this depends on the size of the hole. For small holes that are no larger than a dime, e.g. nail and screw holes, all you need to do is patch it with putty (wall compound). Simply apply a little putty, use a scraper or putty knife to make it flush with the surrounding wall, wait for it to dry, and sand it smooth. For holes that are slightly larger, say the size of a switch plate, you'll need to fill the hole with newspaper before applying the putty. When applying the putty make sure that you use a putty knife that is wider than the hole to ensure it becomes flush.
For medium size holes no larger than about 10 inches you need to apply a hot patch. Cut a piece of drywall the approximate size and shape of the hole and apply drywall tape to the edges to create a flap for affixing to the wall. Apply drywall compound to the entire area and make three to four applications until the area is level and smooth.
You'll also need to use drywall to fix anything larger than a medium size hole. It won't be merely a patch; you'll need to basically build a new piece of wall. Cut and remove the damaged drywall from stud to stud. Cut a piece of new drywall that is the same size as the new opening and attach it to the studs using drywall nails or screws. Try to minimize the size of the seams since it is harder to cover up large gaps. Use drywall tape on the seams, apply compound and smooth with a trowel or putty knife. Wait for the compound to dry (about 24 hours), sand and scrape excess compound and then reapply. Repeat this process one or two more times or until the new drywall and seams are flush with the rest of the wall.
A key to making your job look like it was done by a professional is not to over spackle. Don't think that by applying large amounts of compound you won't have to do extra coats. It's necessary to apply small amounts, let it dry and then repeat three or four times.
Clinton Maxwell very often edits papers on information corresponding to drywall finishing tools and how to do drywall taping. With his works, the columnist demonstrated his capability on areas relating with automatic drywall taping tools.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Clinton_N._Maxwell
By Clinton N. Maxwell
Article Word Count: 488 [View Summary] Comments (0)
Repairing a hole in your wall is easier than you think and there is usually no need to call a handyman. Even large holes can be a do-it-yourself project. Here are some tips to repairing a hole in your wall.
First off, you need to do some preparation and planning. Make sure you have the right tools for the job including putty knives, sandpaper with both course and fine grit and compound. Larger jobs will require more materials and tools such as drywall, drywall nails or screws and a trowel. Make sure that the area around the patch is clean so the compound will adhere to the wall.
Next, you need to determine the best method for repairing the hole and this depends on the size of the hole. For small holes that are no larger than a dime, e.g. nail and screw holes, all you need to do is patch it with putty (wall compound). Simply apply a little putty, use a scraper or putty knife to make it flush with the surrounding wall, wait for it to dry, and sand it smooth. For holes that are slightly larger, say the size of a switch plate, you'll need to fill the hole with newspaper before applying the putty. When applying the putty make sure that you use a putty knife that is wider than the hole to ensure it becomes flush.
For medium size holes no larger than about 10 inches you need to apply a hot patch. Cut a piece of drywall the approximate size and shape of the hole and apply drywall tape to the edges to create a flap for affixing to the wall. Apply drywall compound to the entire area and make three to four applications until the area is level and smooth.
You'll also need to use drywall to fix anything larger than a medium size hole. It won't be merely a patch; you'll need to basically build a new piece of wall. Cut and remove the damaged drywall from stud to stud. Cut a piece of new drywall that is the same size as the new opening and attach it to the studs using drywall nails or screws. Try to minimize the size of the seams since it is harder to cover up large gaps. Use drywall tape on the seams, apply compound and smooth with a trowel or putty knife. Wait for the compound to dry (about 24 hours), sand and scrape excess compound and then reapply. Repeat this process one or two more times or until the new drywall and seams are flush with the rest of the wall.
A key to making your job look like it was done by a professional is not to over spackle. Don't think that by applying large amounts of compound you won't have to do extra coats. It's necessary to apply small amounts, let it dry and then repeat three or four times.
Clinton Maxwell very often edits papers on information corresponding to drywall finishing tools and how to do drywall taping. With his works, the columnist demonstrated his capability on areas relating with automatic drywall taping tools.
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Clinton_N._Maxwell
Build a fence
How To Build A Fence
By Chris Denny
Chris DennyLevel: Basic
Building a fence that will last is almost exactly the same as building any regular fence. The differences mostly involve the materials used but extra attention should be given to HOW the fence is built as well. A fence that lasts cost a little more at first but will save you money in the future.
Advantages of Long Lasting Fences
The advantages of building a fence that lasts include:
LOOKS BETTER for LONGER
Lower total life-time cost
You might be able to re-use your posts for your next fence
Your neighbors will think you are cool (maybe)
Steps to Build a Fence that will Last
1. Choose Your Fence Layout (same as regular)
2. Mark the Fence Corners (same as regular)
3. Stretch a String Between Corners (same as regular)
4. Set Your Heavily Treated or Coated Fence Posts
5. Add 3 Fence Rails (not two) Using Screws
6. Add a "Rot Board"
7. Add Gate
8. Add Fence Pickets Using Screws
Most Common Fence Building Mistake
After more than seven years in the construction business I can tell you easily and confidently the most common mistake made when building a fence.
- First-Cost Sensitivity -
Probably 90% of the people building a fence choose the cheapest materials available. I understand that building a fence is not fun or cool and I would always rather be doing something else but that is exactly the reason to use better materials and build a fence that lasts longer.
For a total of 35% more cost, you can make a fence lasts twice as long and will look great, too.
How to Build a Long Lasting Fence
This is the breakdown by components of what you can do to make a longer lasting fence. You don't have to do everything listed below. In fact, the most important improvements are highlighted so you can jump ahead if you want. If you want more details about building a long lasting fence, read a complete article about how to build a fence that lasts at LumberTalk.com.
Posts
Used coated fence posts. The posts are the foundation of your entire fence so choose the best. The biggest weakness of fence posts is that they rot at the ground line. The best fence post currently available is a treated wood fence post with a polymer coating on the bottom 3' made by American Pole and Timber. Their poly coated fence posts have a 25 year warranty so you can probably use them again when you replace your fence - saving you time and labor expenses.
Rails
Use three rails. That's it. Repeat after me. "Use three rails." Using three rails will greatly reduce the tendency of your fence pickets to warp and generally generally reduces stress on the joints where the rails meet the posts and where the pickets are connected to the rails. Using three rails is what will make your fence look better for longer.
Pickets
Use a rot board. A rot board is a 2x6 or 2x8 installed horizontally along the ground line and below your pickets. The rot board lifts your pickets off the ground to protect them from moisture, insects, and weed eaters. They are easily replaced, which is the idea - much easier than replacing all of your pickets. Simply using a rot board will add a few years to the life of your fence.
Use treated pickets which is standard. You can also use cedar or redwood pickets but those get very expensive. Regular pickets are 5/8" thick but if you can find 3/4" thick pickets, get them. If you do the math, 3/4" pickets are 25% thicker which means they will generally warp less.
Fasteners
Use coated screws. Screws will not pull out like nails and coated screws will not rust and cause "run" marks down your pickets. The commitment with using screws to build your fence is less about money and more about the extra time you'll spend during your initial installation. If you need inspiration, just imagine how great your straight fence will look in five years and how much you will enjoy sipping lemonade while your neighbor is replacing his warped fence boards because he used nails.
There are the basics of building a fence that will last longer. If you did not catch the most important parts then here they are again:
Use poly coated fence posts
Use three rails
Use a rot board
Use screws
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Denny
By Chris Denny
Chris DennyLevel: Basic
Building a fence that will last is almost exactly the same as building any regular fence. The differences mostly involve the materials used but extra attention should be given to HOW the fence is built as well. A fence that lasts cost a little more at first but will save you money in the future.
Advantages of Long Lasting Fences
The advantages of building a fence that lasts include:
LOOKS BETTER for LONGER
Lower total life-time cost
You might be able to re-use your posts for your next fence
Your neighbors will think you are cool (maybe)
Steps to Build a Fence that will Last
1. Choose Your Fence Layout (same as regular)
2. Mark the Fence Corners (same as regular)
3. Stretch a String Between Corners (same as regular)
4. Set Your Heavily Treated or Coated Fence Posts
5. Add 3 Fence Rails (not two) Using Screws
6. Add a "Rot Board"
7. Add Gate
8. Add Fence Pickets Using Screws
Most Common Fence Building Mistake
After more than seven years in the construction business I can tell you easily and confidently the most common mistake made when building a fence.
- First-Cost Sensitivity -
Probably 90% of the people building a fence choose the cheapest materials available. I understand that building a fence is not fun or cool and I would always rather be doing something else but that is exactly the reason to use better materials and build a fence that lasts longer.
For a total of 35% more cost, you can make a fence lasts twice as long and will look great, too.
How to Build a Long Lasting Fence
This is the breakdown by components of what you can do to make a longer lasting fence. You don't have to do everything listed below. In fact, the most important improvements are highlighted so you can jump ahead if you want. If you want more details about building a long lasting fence, read a complete article about how to build a fence that lasts at LumberTalk.com.
Posts
Used coated fence posts. The posts are the foundation of your entire fence so choose the best. The biggest weakness of fence posts is that they rot at the ground line. The best fence post currently available is a treated wood fence post with a polymer coating on the bottom 3' made by American Pole and Timber. Their poly coated fence posts have a 25 year warranty so you can probably use them again when you replace your fence - saving you time and labor expenses.
Rails
Use three rails. That's it. Repeat after me. "Use three rails." Using three rails will greatly reduce the tendency of your fence pickets to warp and generally generally reduces stress on the joints where the rails meet the posts and where the pickets are connected to the rails. Using three rails is what will make your fence look better for longer.
Pickets
Use a rot board. A rot board is a 2x6 or 2x8 installed horizontally along the ground line and below your pickets. The rot board lifts your pickets off the ground to protect them from moisture, insects, and weed eaters. They are easily replaced, which is the idea - much easier than replacing all of your pickets. Simply using a rot board will add a few years to the life of your fence.
Use treated pickets which is standard. You can also use cedar or redwood pickets but those get very expensive. Regular pickets are 5/8" thick but if you can find 3/4" thick pickets, get them. If you do the math, 3/4" pickets are 25% thicker which means they will generally warp less.
Fasteners
Use coated screws. Screws will not pull out like nails and coated screws will not rust and cause "run" marks down your pickets. The commitment with using screws to build your fence is less about money and more about the extra time you'll spend during your initial installation. If you need inspiration, just imagine how great your straight fence will look in five years and how much you will enjoy sipping lemonade while your neighbor is replacing his warped fence boards because he used nails.
There are the basics of building a fence that will last longer. If you did not catch the most important parts then here they are again:
Use poly coated fence posts
Use three rails
Use a rot board
Use screws
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Chris_Denny
Water efficient solutions
Water Efficient Solutions for Faucets and ShowerheadsBy Jennifer MackInday
Jennifer MackIndayLevel: Basic PLUS
Jennifer Mackinday is a small business owner and freelance writer living in Indiana. She enjoys using her home improvement experience to educate homeowners. ...Article Word Count: 669 [View Summary] Comments (0)
Did you know that Americans use about 40 billion gallons of fresh water EVERY day!
In 1992 Congress legislated that all new faucets and shower heads use 2.5 gallons per minute or less, which has helped water conservation efforts. So it may surprise you to hear that the average shower uses 30 gallons of water or more!
Don't worry...there's something you can do that's cost effective and fast to save water and lower utility bills in your home. Evolving technologies have made more efficient plumbing fixtures available to homeowners at affordable prices.
An inexpensive way to conserve water usage is to install low flow faucet aerators on all your faucets. These cost as little $5 but yield significant water savings over time. The aerators work by mixing air with water to reduce the amount of water that comes out of the faucet without lowering the pressure. Newer water efficient faucets are produced with these aerators already installed. Each faucet will save 1 gallon of water per minute with an aerator installed.
In just 15 minutes and for as little as $30 you can install a water efficient showerhead. You'll need the following items for this project:
-adjustable wrench or channel pliers
-towel/rag
-white vinegar
-new showerhead
-plumbers tape
Here are the step by step instructions for replacing your showerhead:
It's not necessary to shutoff the water to your shower. If you feel more comfortable with the water off, locate your shutoff valve. In some instances it is necessary to turn off the water in your bathroom by turning off your main water shutoff valve. It's a good idea to know the location of this valve incase of an emergency. Use an adjustable wrench or pliers to remove the showerhead and allow all the excess water to drain.Clean the pipe's threads thoroughly with vinegar and allow the pipe to dry completely. Wrap the pipe's threads once with plumbers tape. This will ensure a good fit with the showerhead.Attach the new showerhead to the pipe fitting and rotate until secure. Be careful not to over tighten. I recommend using your hands for this step as a wrench or pliers can damage the showerhead and may cause you to over tighten.Turn on the water and watch for leaks. If the showerhead leaks, tighten ¼ turn and retest. Remember not to over tighten.
I highly recommend using Teflon brand plumbers tape. Here are some tips for using plumbers tape:
Wrap the male threads at end of the pipe but do not lap over the end. Doing so may result in reduced water pressure or even clogs from bits of the tape that get into the water supply.Start with a couple loops around at the end, then wrap all the threads, overlapping half the width of the tape on each wind.Wrap in the direction of the threads starting from the end and proceeding toward the length of the pipe. Wrapping the wrong way may result in the tape coming unwound as the fittings are tightened. So if you will rotate the showerhead clockwise to attach, you'll wrap the tape clockwise as wellAs you wrap, keep tension on the tape so that it is pulled into the threads.When you remove the showerhead or any fitting, always remove the old tape and rewrap with a fresh piece.
There are many water-conserving showerheads on the market. In the $20-$30 price range consider Speakman Company showerheads which have an auto flow water conserving device to automatically control water flow and a ball joint connection for smooth positioning. If money is no object consider Waterdecor products
Low flow water fixtures are readily found at building supply stores and online, and they don't require any special connections or fittings to install.
Now get ready to save water, energy and money! A family of three can conserve over 10,000 gallons of water every year with the installation of water-conserving shower heads. Do your part to protect our nation's fresh water supply and save money on your utility bills, too. No that's a home improvement we can all benefit from!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_MackInday
Jennifer MackIndayLevel: Basic PLUS
Jennifer Mackinday is a small business owner and freelance writer living in Indiana. She enjoys using her home improvement experience to educate homeowners. ...Article Word Count: 669 [View Summary] Comments (0)
Did you know that Americans use about 40 billion gallons of fresh water EVERY day!
In 1992 Congress legislated that all new faucets and shower heads use 2.5 gallons per minute or less, which has helped water conservation efforts. So it may surprise you to hear that the average shower uses 30 gallons of water or more!
Don't worry...there's something you can do that's cost effective and fast to save water and lower utility bills in your home. Evolving technologies have made more efficient plumbing fixtures available to homeowners at affordable prices.
An inexpensive way to conserve water usage is to install low flow faucet aerators on all your faucets. These cost as little $5 but yield significant water savings over time. The aerators work by mixing air with water to reduce the amount of water that comes out of the faucet without lowering the pressure. Newer water efficient faucets are produced with these aerators already installed. Each faucet will save 1 gallon of water per minute with an aerator installed.
In just 15 minutes and for as little as $30 you can install a water efficient showerhead. You'll need the following items for this project:
-adjustable wrench or channel pliers
-towel/rag
-white vinegar
-new showerhead
-plumbers tape
Here are the step by step instructions for replacing your showerhead:
It's not necessary to shutoff the water to your shower. If you feel more comfortable with the water off, locate your shutoff valve. In some instances it is necessary to turn off the water in your bathroom by turning off your main water shutoff valve. It's a good idea to know the location of this valve incase of an emergency. Use an adjustable wrench or pliers to remove the showerhead and allow all the excess water to drain.Clean the pipe's threads thoroughly with vinegar and allow the pipe to dry completely. Wrap the pipe's threads once with plumbers tape. This will ensure a good fit with the showerhead.Attach the new showerhead to the pipe fitting and rotate until secure. Be careful not to over tighten. I recommend using your hands for this step as a wrench or pliers can damage the showerhead and may cause you to over tighten.Turn on the water and watch for leaks. If the showerhead leaks, tighten ¼ turn and retest. Remember not to over tighten.
I highly recommend using Teflon brand plumbers tape. Here are some tips for using plumbers tape:
Wrap the male threads at end of the pipe but do not lap over the end. Doing so may result in reduced water pressure or even clogs from bits of the tape that get into the water supply.Start with a couple loops around at the end, then wrap all the threads, overlapping half the width of the tape on each wind.Wrap in the direction of the threads starting from the end and proceeding toward the length of the pipe. Wrapping the wrong way may result in the tape coming unwound as the fittings are tightened. So if you will rotate the showerhead clockwise to attach, you'll wrap the tape clockwise as wellAs you wrap, keep tension on the tape so that it is pulled into the threads.When you remove the showerhead or any fitting, always remove the old tape and rewrap with a fresh piece.
There are many water-conserving showerheads on the market. In the $20-$30 price range consider Speakman Company showerheads which have an auto flow water conserving device to automatically control water flow and a ball joint connection for smooth positioning. If money is no object consider Waterdecor products
Low flow water fixtures are readily found at building supply stores and online, and they don't require any special connections or fittings to install.
Now get ready to save water, energy and money! A family of three can conserve over 10,000 gallons of water every year with the installation of water-conserving shower heads. Do your part to protect our nation's fresh water supply and save money on your utility bills, too. No that's a home improvement we can all benefit from!
Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Jennifer_MackInday
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